BigShot pansies

Wow! Make a huge splash in your garden with these super-sized blooms. Only a few plants will provide lots of color. BigShot pansies are easy to grow and care for. They are ideal for planting in early spring. As soon as you can dig the soil in your garden, you can plant BigShot pansies. They will withstand the light, recurring frosts associated with early spring or fall weather.  

Planting & Care

BigShot Pansies are available in early spring and available in early spring and in fall if you live in the Southern US.

Space out plants about 5 inches apart, or closer if you want a very full appearance. Work slow release fertilizer into the soil prior to planting, or use liquid fertilizer at time of planting and every 2 weeks to encourage more blooming. Deadheading (removing spent blooms) can also provide more blooms over the season. Keep the plants from drying out with regular watering.
Spring Planted:
As it gets hotter, BigShot pansies, like all pansies, will start to develop longer stems and fewer, smaller blooms- referred to as ‘getting leggy’. By planting your summer annuals around your BigShot pansies, you can start to remove the BigShot pansies as they get leggy and your summer annuals get bigger and fuller. This gives you a colorful garden from early spring until fall.

Fall Planted: (Southern States Only)
You can plant BigShot pansies in September or October to add new life to your garden and extend its season through any frost you might get where you live. Depending on your location and weather variances, your BigShot pansies may continue to bloom and look great all winter. You will most likely want to plant new BigShot pansies in early spring for best blooms.

Colors and Ideas
BigShot pansies come in shades of yellow, blue, white, red and purple. With their contrasting dark ‘faces’ you will find they provide dramatic interest to any garden. Any combinations of these colors look great- and consider pairing BigShot pansies with other early spring favorites such as tulips and daffodils. Yellow blooms can be seen from far away, so keep that in mind when you’re planting. If you put yellow plants in a dormant corner of your garden, you’ll instantly brighten it up!
Don’t restrict yourself just to garden beds! BigShot pansies are ideal for container plantings. Consider filling your weather-proof container with BigShot pansies to enjoy through colder temperatures at your front door or patio.

                        



                 

Hot Chilly Pansies

                                                                   

Like all pansies, Hot Chilly Pansies can take the cold, but Hot Chilly pansies also bloom longer through warmer temperatures as well.
Planting & Care
Hot Chilly Pansies are available in early spring.

Space out plants about 5 inches apart, or closer if you want a very full appearance. Work slow release fertilizer into the soil prior to planting, or use liquid fertilizer at time of planting and every 2 weeks to encourage more blooming. Deadheading (removing spent blooms) can also provide more blooms over the season. Keep the plants from drying out with regular watering.

As it gets very hot, Hot Chilly pansies, like all pansies, will start to develop longer stems and fewer, smaller blooms- referred to as ‘getting leggy’. By planting your summer annuals around your Hot Chilly pansies, you can start to remove the Hot Chilly pansies as they get leggy and your summer annuals get bigger and fuller. This gives you a colorful garden from early spring until fall.

Colors and Ideas
Hot Chilly pansies come in shades of yellow, purple, white and red. Most colors have contrasting dark faces. Any combinations of these colors look great- and consider pairing Hot Chilly pansies with other early spring favorites such as tulips and daffodils. Yellow blooms can be seen from far away, so keep that in mind when you’re planting. If you put yellow plants in a dormant corner of your garden, you’ll instantly brighten it up! 

                                                                            

                                                                           

Trellis structure

Again we have come with another innovative planting tip which is very important for every home gardeners who always strives for a healthy blooming fruitful garden.


Steps before positioning the trellis
There are different designs of trellis that can be ideal for your home garden. But selecting the ideal type of trellis depends on what type of plants will be climbing on it. While choosing the right design of trellis for your garden it is a better option to choose a strong trellis, which is also beautiful enough to embellish your garden. Trellises can be metallic wooden or of plastic like PVC pipe. Metallic posts are better than the wooden ones as they last long and doesn't get damaged easily. If you insist on wooden post it is better to layer it with a preservative. On top of the posts you can spread plastic or string net or chicken wire net. But chicken wire net has a disadvantage. Removing dead plants form chicken wire net can be a troublesome job. Long Bamboo poles can be used to climb pole beans

Some information on trellis structure
Plants should be trained to climb on trellises while they are small. Attach string on the plants and make them climb the trellis
Trellis structures should be located on the north side of the garden so that the other plants are not overshadowed.
It is better to use vertical trellis if there is a space problem.
Advantages and disadvantages of the trellis structure
Vegetables grown with the support of trellis are easier to pluck and don't get rot easily. It is because it has less contact with the soil.
Air is circulated more and it results in the healthy growth of the vegetables.
Trellises can also take care of your privacy by providing you a sort of screen from unwanted attention.
Also it can be a cool shade during the summer and give a relief from the scorching sun.
Growing plants on trellises are not without disadvantages.
Trellises should be strong enough for the windy places.
Plant that are not naturally climbers you need to train them so that they can climb the trellises.
Heavy fruit and vegetables will require more support while grown on trellises.
Thorough -watering is required for trellis-plants, as water is been absorbed quickly in this growth technique.
As trellis plants are more open to wind so it prevents pollination. So it affects the flower plants especially.

Gardening Of Fragrant Flowers

Some times there are so many things to be taken care of while designing a garden that we just overlook it. Just as the lushly greenery is quite rejuvenating to the mind and body similarly a heavenly scented garden is a solace to the heart after the struggling turmoil of the day.


Flowers are not the only source of fragrance though they are the most common one. Fragrance can also be found in roots, oils, leaves, stalks and even seeds. It is seen in general that fragrant flowers are not bright-colored. For a fragrant flower garden always select flowers that are having thick petals as their texture. Flowers like citrus, magnolia and gardenia are the best examples.

There is a wide variety in the degree of fragrance of the same flower. It differs due to the changes in temperature, moisture content in the atmosphere. The degree of the fragrance of the flowers also depends on the time of the day and the time period of the flower blooming. For example roses smell sweet in mild damp morning and the scent reaches at it ultimate height during the afternoon and by the night the fragrance of the roses ends up. The jasmine flower can be planted in terrace or below the window of your bedroom so that the sweet smell can soothe your soul.

The fragrance of the flowers is sometimes destroyed by the climatic conditions. Less water and scorching heat can hamper the sweet smell of the flowers. Scented garden are at its height when the air is gentle and the moisture content is high in the air. Frost and rain helps to bring out the suppressed fragrance of your garden.

While gardening fragrant flowers you can also sow other type of plants like trees, shrubs, vines and perennials. Here is a list of the fragrant flowers that can make your garden heavenly. The banana shrub, Japanese privet, fortune osmanthus, sweet osmanthus, gardenia, rose, confederate jasmine, and sweet viburnum, jessamine, citrus, gardenia, rose, sweet viburnum, confederate jasmine, butterfly bush, angel's trumpet, Japanese privet and orange jasmine frangipani, Arabian jasmine, lady of the night, gardenia, Japanese privet, crape jasmine, angel's trumpet, orange jasmine, citrus, rose and sweet viburnum.

You should always smell the flowers while buying so that you can get the fragrance of your desire.

Steps for growing trees and shrubs

1.For planting trees and shrubs in the garden dig the hole large enough so that the roots of the plant are settled inside the soil comfortably. The breadth of the hole of the tree should be half of the shrub roots diameter.
2.Mix the soil with some peat moss and fill the hole while planting the shrub in it.
3.If you are replacing the shrub from the container to the soil you should dig the hole 2 inches deeper than the roots of the plant. The soil that will be under the roots should be loosened up.
4.Put the shrub or tree from the container and put it in the hole. Fill the hole up with loose soil.
5.Then heap some loose soil around the newly sowed plant. This heap of loose soil will hold the water and help the plant to settle down deep-rooted in the new place.
6.While placing the shrub or tree in the hole hold the plant straight with a spading fork and then fill the hole with loose soil so that it is able to hold the roots tightly. The roots should be 2 inches deeper than it was in the pot before the transferring.
7.Water is the most important thing after the plant has being replanted. After replanting water your plant for 10 days consecutively if the weather is dry.
8.Trim the tree or shrub and give a shape and size of your choice. The branches should be cut above the bud in a slanting direction. In this type of trimming the shrubs repair the damage of cutting easily and grow quickly. Spray the trimmed areas with a special pruning spray as soon as the trimming is done to keep the insects and other harmful pests away.

Plant Diseases

If by examining the above list of pests you have not discovered an obvious cause for your plant problem, perhaps you need to consider the possibility of disease. Although there are numerous diseases that can attack your plants, home gardeners are likely to only experience a few of the more common ones. Click on any of the following to determine if this disease is your problem.

Botrytis blight
• Common to tulips, it's caused by a fungus.
• Light to dark colored spots appear on part or all leaves and flowers.
• In cool, moist weather a fuzzy brown or grayish mold forms; leaves and stems distort, and often rot off at the base.
• Bulbs have dark, circular, sunken lesions; and dark brown pinhead sized pellets form on the bulb husks.

Crown rots
• Most severe in overcrowded plantings, above 70 degrees F and moist conditions.
• Leaves irises grown from rhizomes die, leaf tips form downward.
• The leaf bases and possibly the rhizomes are dry brown, and rotted.
• Leaves and stems at soil level are rotted, and bulbs are soft and crumbly.

Leaf spots
• Several disease and environmental factors contribute to spotting and blotching of leaves. The most common are the fungal and bacterial left spots.
• Fungal leaf spots are 1/4 inch yellow, red, tan, gray, brown, or black circular spots on leaves.
• Bacterial leaf spots are usually tiny, angular dark colored and may be accompanied by rotting and oozing.

Powdery and downy mildews
• Flour like patches on the surface of leaves, buds, young stems and fruits.
• They thrive in both humid and dry weather.
• The spores are spread by the wind to healthy plants.
• They cause leaf yellowing, dwarfing, stunting and deformation.
• Common on roses, zinnias, phlox, lilacs, cucurbits, apples and grapes in shaded, crowded areas.

Pests and Disease

Insects are a natural visitor to any garden.But not all insects are bad for your plants and flower gardens. In fact, many are beneficial because they eat other insects that can be a problem. However, some bugs are harmful and, if not detected and treated properly, can cause severe damage to your garden.
Good gardening practices will deter pest problems before they begin
Ensure your soil is healthy by enriching it with homemade compost and other appropriate nutrients. This builds strong plants which are more resistant to most pests. See soil smarts.
Avoid planting the same crops in the same location year after year. This is especially important in vegetable gardens.

Keep your garden clean and tidy. Insects may start on nearby weeds or dead foliage and then migrate to your healthy plants.

Experiment with companion planting by growing certain varieties next to others. Marigolds, for example, actually deter insects.

Feed and water your plants regularly as directed (most annuals need weekly fertilizing). Properly nourished plants stay vigorous and are less susceptible to infestation and disease.
In spite of good pest prevention, some conditions might prevail that promote insects. Click on any of the following to determine if this pest is your problem.
Aphids
• Tiny yellow, green, or dark colored soft bodied insects cluster on the leaves, stems, and flowers.• Leaves are curled, distorted, and yellowing. Flowers are often malformed.• A shiny, sticky substance may coat the leaves.• Aphids are extremely prolific and populations can rapidly build up to damaging numbers during the growing season.• Ants feed on honeydew, a sweet, sticky substance excreted by these insects.
Mealy bugs
• Oval, white insects up to 1/4 inch long.
• Cluster in white cottony masses, on stems and leaves.
• Eggs and some adults can survive through the winter in warm climates.
• Leaves may be deformed and withered.
• Infested leaves are often shiny and sticky.
• Begonias and coleus are susceptible to several mealy bug species.
• Ants feed on honeydew, a sweet, sticky substance excreted by these insects.
Scale
• Tiny sap sucking insects that look like tiny bumps on plant leaves and stems.
• They hide under a shell cover that acts as a shield.
• They can kill plants if present in large numbers.
• Ants feed on honeydew, a sweet, sticky substance excreted by these insects.
Thrips
• Tiny insects resembling brown or straw colored wood slivers.
• Found at the base of petals in a flower bud.
• In cold climates thrips feed and reproduce from spring until fall.
• They are especially troublesome during prolonged dry spells.
• There are often silvery white streaks on the leaves.
• Flower buds turn brown and die before they open.
• Flowers that have opened are often streaked and distorted.
White flies
• Nymphs are oval, flat insects with short, sucking beaks.
• Nymphs are usually found on lower leaf surfaces.
• White flies are common to greenhouse vegetables and flowers but in warmer climates, they attack citrus and many ornamentals as well.
• Ants feed on honeydew, a sweet, sticky substance excreted by these insects.

Plant Nutrients

Plant Nutrients

All plants require nutrients for healthy growth

Plants, whether annuals, perennials, vegetables, fruit trees and even grass all need nourishment to grow and thrive. Nature provides a lot of the basic needs like oxygen and sunlight but if you're going to have a stellar garden, you'll need to pay attention to providing the other nutrients needed for healthy plants throughout the growing season.
Many different nutrients are important to plant development. The 3 main ones are Nitrogen (N), Phosphorous (P) and Potassium (K), plus many other elements necessary for healthy plant growth, but only in trace amounts. These are all present to a certain degree in most soils. However, like all good food the pantry can become bare if not replenished, and it's up to you to replace it. Fertilizers containing these 3 main nutrients are available at all garden centers. They come in dry and liquid forms and with varying amounts of each element. Why in varying amounts? Because plants differ in their requirements at different times. Bloomers, for example, need fertilizer high in Phosphorous. Vegetables are best encouraged by 5-10-10 since more nitrogen will promote too much foliage, leaving little nourishment to produce the fruit. Fertilize bedding plants shortly after planting, using a solution of plant starter fertilizer such as 10-52-10 to help plants become established and to promote root development. It's not really complicated, just read the labels carefully, they'll guide you to the right fertilizer for the job.
To determine the pH of your soil get a soil test kit sold at most nurseries. The pH scale runs from 0 to 14, with 7 being the neutral level. Soils that read less than 7 are on the acidic side, those higher than 7 are on the alkaline side. It is important to know the pH of the soil because it affects the soil chemistry and plant metabolism, which in turn will determine the success of your garden. Most plants will perform well in soils with a pH between 6.0 and 7.5.

Nitrogen (N)

This nutrient is responsible for the healthy green color of your plants. It is an essential part of proteins and chlorophyll, the plant pigment that plays a vital role in photosynthesis. Nitrogen deficiencies result in a yellowing of leaves, and a general slow down in growth.

Phosphorus (P)

Phosphorus promotes healthy root growth, fruit and seed development, and increased disease resistance. Plants with a shortage of phosphorus are often stunted, have dark green foliage, followed by reddening of the stems and leaves. The symptoms generally appear on the older leaves first.

Potash (K)

Also referred to as potassium. This nutrient promotes vigorous growth and disease resistance. Signs of a deficiency show up as browning of the edges of leaves, and mottled yellow or pale green mature leaves. Older leaves are affected first.

Calcium, magnesium, and sulfur

These are the secondary nutrients, and are needed in lesser amounts than nitrogen, phosphorus, and potash (potassium). Where the soil is acidic (such as in areas of high rainfall), these secondary nutrients are important to balance the soil. Liming helps maintain a soil pH beneficial to plants.

Iron, manganese, copper, boron, molybdenum, chlorine, zinc

These are micro-nutrients. It's not a good idea to add these micro-nutrients to your soil because plants only need very small amounts of them and most soil contains enough. Too much of any of them can be harmful. If your plants aren't getting the right amount of these nutrients it's usually because an imbalance in the pH level of your soil is preventing the roots from absorbing them. Properly adjusting the pH level should solve the problem.

Weed Control

Weed Control

These tips will help to minimize weed problems in your garden

Beating the weeds

Your hands are your best weeding tools. While kneeling, you can grab many weeds right at the base of the stem and pull them out. Be careful when pulling, to get the roots also. More difficult or rampant weeds will require some special weeding tools. The two best weeding tools are the hoe and the mattock. A hoe is required for the rough and tumble weeds or a mass of young seedlings. A metal file can be used to sharpen the edge of the blade as you hoe. The hand mattock is a great tool for weeding while kneeling in the garden. Follow this link to take a look at some gardening tools and accessories.

Mulching

Mulching is great for keeping your garden free of weeds and is effective and simple. Mulch your garden at the beginning of the growing season each year. This protective layer of mulch insulates the soil from the hot summer sun, protects it from drying winds, and all but eliminates weeds.
After the mulch is applied, you don't have to hoe between the rows. Mulching can reduce the water required to one third of the amount throughout the growing season. The soil stays evenly moist under the mulch. And as the organic mulches decay, they improve the soil. For mulching to be effective it should be approximately 3 inches thick. Organic mulches include straw, peat moss, sawdust, dry manure, leaves, pine needles, grass clippings, wood chips, and bark chips. Inorganic mulches include aluminum foil, newspaper, and polyethylene film. Mulching will help to keep plants healthy, and will keep your garden looking beautiful.

Weeding around seedlings

Keep the area weeded, because weeds will compete with your plant seedlings for food and water and will cut down on good air circulation, potentially inviting disease. Be careful not to disturb the seedlings' roots when weeding. Water well after weeding to reestablish any plant roots that may have been disturbed.

Annual weeds

Annual weeds germinate, flower, and die back in one season. However, their seeds are extremely plentiful and are spread by gardeners, mulches, manure, compost, birds, animals, wind, and rain.
Common annual vegetable garden weeds are chickweed, cheeseweed, wild oats, wild barley, mustards, shepherds purse, sowthistle, annual bluegrass, clover, groundsel, nettle, crabgrass, night shade, horseweed, purslane, fleabane, lamb's quarters, prickly lettuce, milk-thistle, sweet clovers, bristly oxtongue, and barnyardgrass. A single barnyardgrass weed can produce over 1 million seeds in its short life.

Perennial weeds

Perennial weeds live through winter, although they may die back. They reproduce from underground bulbs, rhizomes, or crowns on taproots. Perennial weeds interfering with crop growth include nutsedge, witchgrass, bermudagrass, dallisgrass, milkweed, field bindweed, Johnsongrass, and ozalis. If some of these names seem familiar, it's because what's considered a weed in vegetable gardens may be considered grass in front yards.
Unfortunately, grass seeds germinate as well in a vegetable or flower garden as they do in a lawn. Sometimes even better, if you keep the garden soil in top condition. All that open space provides much less competition for weed growth than that offered by a crowded front yard lawn.

mulching

Spring Planting Tips

Spring Planting Tips

And you can start planning before the snow melts

Planning your gardenFor beginners it is important to draw a
garden layout plan
• Choose plants suitable for the site (sun vs. shade, soil, etc)
• Arrange plants according to their height
• Arrange according to plant form and texture
• Arrange according to flowering periods for constant blooming
• Arrange in groupings by type and color considerations

Soil preparation

Prepare flower beds by spading deeply.
Loosen up heavy clay and clay loam soil with addition of
peat moss, sand, ground bark or compost. Add about 2 lbs
of 5-10-5 fertilizer per 100 sq ft or 1 lb of 10-10-10 per
100 sq ft and turn the soil over again. Then rake it smooth,
and the bed will be ready. For more information see soil smarts.

Preplanting care

If you buy bedding plants but can't plant them
the same day, water packs or flats thoroughly and put them in
shade to prevent excessive wilting. Evenings of cloudy days are
the best times to plant. If you have to plant during the heat of the
day or on sunny days be sure plants are watered thoroughly
immediately after planting.

How to plant

Annuals come in market packs, pop out packs,
trays, flats or individual pots. Choose plants that are dark green,
vigorous looking and short in height. If plants are in individual
containers, gently separate plants keeping as much soil around
the roots as possible. Plant the root ball below the soil line.
Plant individual peat moss pots slightly below the soil line to
keep the pot from drying out by exposure to air.

Watering

Bedding plant annuals are thirsty plants.
Water them thoroughly to give them a good start. Thereafter
water whenever the soil begins to dry. Do it early in the day.
Don't be satisfied with just sprinkling the foliage since plants
will not receive enough water, and moisture on the foliage for
more than 24 hours encourages plant disease.

After planting care

To promote bushy, vigorous growth and more
continuous blossoming, pinch out the central buds of annuals such
as tall snapdragons, zinnias and marigolds. The tops of plant which
tend to vine such as petunias should be cut back to 3 to 4 inches when
they are too tall. Fertilize every 3 to 4 weeks (1 pinch per plant or 1 lb.
per 100 sq. ft. of 5-10-5 fertilizer).

Vacation tip:

Cut your plants back before you leave and when you
return they will be fresh, thriving and vigorous.